Lookin' to downsize, the sequel.

 

An old friend pulled back into service -
my old hemp bag is 9" x 8" and weighs next to nothing.
It's cool because it can be carried as a purse or a daypack.

So, here is what I came up with to minimize my letterboxing kit. I swapped out my beloved Ori backpack for a hemp convertible bag-backpack that I picked up in Athens. I carried it as my everyday bag for absolutely years after returning from Greece in 2015. It is not waterproof, but it is washable and wears like iron. I have thought about spraying it with a waterproofing product like Camp Dry. 

For the logbook, I am using the small Moleskine art-sketch book. The large Altoid-type tin holds enough ink for the trail, a compact pen, and our siggy; I lined it with felt to reduce rattle. I included only one glove, because that is all I ever use, along with a mini mister bottle and piece of felt for wiping inky stamps. The letterbox first-aid kit contains extra zips, felt pieces, and small logbooks for administering maintenance when needed. Finally, I added my planting notepad and (another compact) pen.

Altogether, this bag loaded weighs 1.86 lbs. Not bad! My old kit weighed over 3 lbs.; the old ink box and logbook alone weighed the same as this entire downsized kit! Now, lightening the load by only a pound or so doesn't seem like much, but it sure feels less bulky and heavy! It also looks more natural in a city or park trail than a more hiking-type backpack. I can hardly wait to give it a go on the trail.

And, just a thought: for letterboxing adventures that require more than a stroll, I would definitely go back to my Ori bag because I could carry a water bottle, a small snack, and my cell phone together with my boxing stuff. The Ori is ergonomically designed and isn't difficult to wear for long periods of time, even when fully loaded.

I think the only thing I am going to add to this minimal letterboxing kit is an old fork from a thrift store for surface digging. That comes in particularly handy with boxes that have lived forgotten in the wild for a number of years. And remember, Obimaster carries all the other heavy stuff - clippers, plastic trowel, flashlight, small first aid kit, bug spray, etc. We have divided the labor - I do the stamping in and maintenance, and he carries the stuff I don't want to carry! Frankly, I would do fine without all the extras, but he feels better having all that stuff handy when I am in the brush fussing about brambles or other such things while looking for a box. 

Y'know ... I am not sure what is more fun - being out on the trail looking for boxes, or putting together the perfect letterboxing kit. What do you think?

Lookin' to downsize.

So, everyone wants to talk about what they carry on the trail  - what they deem important inside their letterboxing pack. I recently posted about creating an 'emergency letterboxing kit' to keep in my car (or in my bag) for those impromptu boxing opportunities. Just having that little kit has made me yearn for a smaller letterboxing pack. 

This is a perfect size for a small backpack,
and it is made wonderfully - unfortunately, it is not cheap.
Definitely a downside. But, it won't wear out!

I love my little Ori backpack, truly - it is the perfect size, it is made beautifully, waterproof with a trail-proof bottom, and it comes in a lot of really nice colors. I think you would be hard-pressed to wear this thing out. But, it is not cheap, which is definitely a downside. And it is not heavy, but what I carry in it is. 

The weight of the 8" x 5" Moleskin logbook, all those inks,
and the plastic box all adds up!

In addition to my log and ink box, I carry other things in there, too: gloves, letterbox first-aid (extra zips, felt, and small logbooks), a small first aid kit, and an extra pen & notebook for planting notes. And of course, my cell phone. Frankly, it feels like too much - I want to downsize!

This might be more like it ...

This Moleskin logbook is only 5.5" x 3.5",
and that oversized Altoid tin (4" x 3") doesn't weigh anything close to that plastic box.
And just two ink pads is a lot lighter than a whole rainbow.

I was thinking about getting a smaller pack, as well, but I may just swap out the book and ink box to see if that makes enough difference. I think I will miss all the colors, but in reality, the boxes we have been finding lately (really since we have been back in) don't require a rainbow of colors. I have known people who have carried Tombow markers, and it is really cool to have all those colors, but I would be afraid of mucking up my spendy pens with a black-ink-encrusted stamp. I also used to carry a small, damp rag to clean stamps, but that seems to be unnecessary at this point, as well. Nowadays, I just end up using a dark ink, for the most part.

on the trail in Troutdale, Oregon

Now, I will say I am fortunate - Obimaster carries all the other items that are nice to have on the trail: a small trowel, waterproof gloves (mine are not, unfortunately), clippers (for those nasty blackberry brambles), small flashlight, and probably other things I am unaware of ... it is his pack, after all. I am in charge of the ink and stamping business, and he is the tool-guy. So it works. But, if you need to carry those things because you don't have an extra boxer with you who is a tool-guy (or gal), I am sure there are small lightweight clippers to be had, and you could use an old fork in place of a trowel (in fact, that was a great suggestion from a fellow boxer last time we were talking about boxing packs). We don't have a big bug problem around the PNW, generally, so I don't carry bug spray in my pack - it is in the car, though, in case we are boxing in August on the peninsula. Yikes!

What do you think? Is smaller better? Just for fun, I weighed the large log and ink box and the smaller kit to see if there was a difference. Turns out the larger log and inks are 1 pound, 8.4 oz, while the smaller options are 1 pound lighter. Doesn't sound like a lot, really. But, maybe the smaller log and inks would be more discreet, especially if I were to get a smaller backpack or bag. (I am now remembering that Thunderbird wears a fishing vest - hm, not a bad idea!) 

Perhaps discretion is motivating my desire to downsize a bit - it seems like there are way more muggles on the trails than I remember from years ago. The parks are packed, parking is a premium, there are always dog-walkers, and kids are everywhere. (Don't get me wrong - that's a good thing!) All those other park visitors are making it more challenging to not attract attention while working out a clue. My goal is to find the box, stamp in quick, and get it back in place before being spotted - which is almost impossible. Even in the middle of winter! Maybe that is why more boxes are planted in cemeteries - not a lot of muggles hanging around there :)

Douglass Pioneer Cemetery

Lookin' back for inspiration.

So, the problem - as inconsequential as it is - is regaining the ability to carve the lettering I want to carve. The solution is simple: Practice. Ha! No rocket science there! But, I find inspiration always helpful :)

Here's some lettering inspiration from a long time ago:

2.25" across; c. 2010

My favorite lettering to carve is my own handwriting ... why? No idea. But, it is my go-to, rather than a font (probably because it requires no computer!). I have seen some very impressive carvers, especially those knife-carvers, that are so precise with their carving that the stamps look store-bought! Amazing! I'm not like that - I guess I am more of a folk-art type of lettering carver. 

The stamp above was from the last month-long road trip Samsonite (then Padawan) and I took with our homeschoolers. We used it as both an exchange stamp and to log into found letterboxes.

2.25 x 3.5"
An example of font carving; I am always fascinated with word clouds

2 x 3.25"

Not sure if I still have this stamp (of a wonderful park on the Washington side of the Columbia River) - but, I am sure I carved it for an LTC swap of some sort. Carving the letters 'into' the background can be quite challenging.

Above is some of the last carving I did before ducking out of the hobby, captured in my carving log. That cuckoo clock was carved for my dear letterboxing friend, Kuku, for her amazing birthday event. It was so fun, even if my personal life was falling apart at the time. 

But, check out that lettering on those 'thank you' stamps! Those lines are so thin! (Did I really do that??) Both stamps are my own handwriting. More lettering up on the Anakin & Padme stamp, again in my own hand. (And, it doesn't have lettering but I still love that little inchie of Padawan in the lower left corner.)

Above is lettering practice from yesterday, using Tan Z. Despite the challenge of lettering, I am starting to feel pretty comfortable carving with the Pfeil and Flexcut tools. My favorites are evolving to be the Pfeil 1mm v-gouge, the Pfeil 0.5mm u-gouge, and the Flexcut palm tools from the micro set. I just bought another Flexcut palm tool, this time the 5mm u-gouge, to replace my Staedtler large gouge which I have always used for cleanup. The new Flexcut tool is a deeper gouge (than the Staedtler), so it works really nice for smoothing the edges of the stamp, as well. 

This last stamp is one I carved for those first 'inchie' swaps so long ago. This Yoda-ese sums up my thoughts about carving - both back then and now. It continues to prompt me to challenge myself with images I initially think are out of reach. Maybe it will inspire you, too.

Finding the magic.

I think there is a magical sweet spot when you discover the right tool(s) to use on the right material. In the past, PZ Kut (A or B) and the Staedtler carving gouges were complete and total magic for me. I look back at some of my old carves and marvel. Was I ever that accomplished at carving? I remember at the time thinking that I could carve anything I wanted with success. However, that is not the case today.

As you may know, I have spent quite a bit of time and resources to try new tools. I have also tried a number of carving blocks, but have always circled back to my old PZ scraps (which requires small stamps at this point!). I have one piece of PZ (A) that a dear friend gifted to me quite a while ago, and I am afraid to use it. It seems I am saving it for something very special. 

But, I think I have found my way again. Not that I can carve anything I want - far from it! But, my theory has been proving true: The carving tools intended for lino and wood - such as the Flexcut, Dockyard, Ramelson, and Pfeil - probably work best on stiffer material. I had been using Firm Kut thinking that was going to be my go-to, but was really fighting with it more than anything. It has a nice, smooth cut, and I can get fine-ish detail, but I always struggle with those tight corners. It is more rubbery than I would like, I guess. 

When I first tried Tan Z, I was using the Staedtler gouge, which proved to be quite a 'push' on that stiffer material; I have friends who can't use it due to hand fatigue. On a whim I took another try with the Tan Z, but this time instead of using the Staedtlers, I used the Pfeil tools primarily, and using Flexcut for cleanup. I was actually surprised with the results! I think I may have hit on that sought-after magic combination! I didn't experience the hand fatigue like before - perhaps this was due to the different way the tools are held. Further, the corners 'popped' nice and clean, and I was able to get that fine detail I want. At least for me and my style of carving, there was not a lot of 'clean up' required - which was rather surprising. 

Here are some of my latest efforts. The images are not similar other than they were all carved on Tan Z with Pfeil and Flexcut tools. The real test is carving portraits and lettering, but I have been rather frustrated with lettering as of late, so I just stuck with a portrait for now.

Isn't that pie the cutest thing ever?
It is just under an inch, the portrait is 1 x 1.5",
and the ship is 3.5 x 2".

I think I will continue to work with this combination - the proof of real magic will be shown over time. 

After we returned from our glorious vacation in Central Oregon, I got to carving for Plant a Letterbox Day. I decided to go ahead and plant the planned boxes mostly because I want to utilize minimal restrictions, and according to the rules, that is not allowed. So, they 'commemorate' PAL, rather than being part of the 'official' count for that day. So be it.

It was so beautiful while we were out planting, I snapped a couple pics. Y'know, for a tired, old mill town, Aberdeen (Washington) has some really beautiful places, if you know where to look.

the muddy banks of the Wishkah

along the Chehalis River

a magical sunset

What's in your boxing bag?

 

This is always an interesting conversation - what is in your 'boxing bag? 

ESSENTIALS:

lightweight pack/bag

logbook (I like Moleskine for the thick pages)

signature stamp(s)

ink, markers, pens

gloves, preferably dark

clues

FIRST AID:

for letterboxes: various sizes of zip bags, small logbooks, felt pieces

for people: bandaids, etc.

NICE TO HAVE:

a rag and water mister for stamp cleanup

small portable surface for stamping in wet/mucky conditions

digging tool, such as small trowel or spoon

compass (I use my cell phone)

personal traveler stamp (in case you meet another boxer on the trail!)

To carry the amount of ink I want to carry, I fashioned my own box. I have used a modified fishing-fly box in the past, but this time around, I found this:

found at Walmart

After ditchin' the gun cleaning stuff, I added a sticky-backed thin craft foam to the inside, and added divider made from lightweight craft wood glued in place.

It can hold 9 of the Archival Ink mini pads, or 12 Distress Ink mini pads. 

I use the Archival on the trail, and I am thinking the Distress may be better 

for events or inside gathers where waterproof isn't as much of an issue.

I especially like the lid as a place to set stuff while stamping in - 

because it is curved, stuff won't roll or slide away. 

Especially nice when inking up in the car.

I also like to add a piece of felt over the ink pads to muffle any noise, and it doubles as an ink rag in a pinch. Happily, this box also holds a stick pen - how convenient! On the trail I am all about convenience and getting stamped in and out before anyone notices what is happening. 

As a side note: I was using the ink tin storage boxes that are designed to hold these mini ink pads, and I loved the look of them. But, they are not as sturdy as I would like. I also had to sacrifice carrying one of the ink pads to accommodate my sig-stamps, plus there was no room for a pen. Moreover, with how I shove my stuff into my pack when out on the trail, I didn't think the tin would hold up as well as a harder plastic. Since the tin boxes don't have a secure closing mechanism, I was afraid the ink pads would end up riding in the bottom of my bag, perhaps without their lids.

Now, about that portable stamping surface - I learned quite quickly that I didn't like to set my logbook down onto the wet or mucky ground to stamp in, and that I wasn't very good at squatting down and balancing my logbook on my knee while juggling ink, etc. So, I took a cheap cutting board, cut it in half so it could fold into the size of my logbook, and glued craft foam on one side. It is not pretty, but has been indispensable, and has lasted from my early boxing days.

the plastic side goes on the wet trail,
the green side protects my logbook,
and is rigid enough to be a stamping surface

One last note about the boxing bag itself - I am loving my LeSportSac backpack. As most boxers, I have tried many different packs and bags to schlep my stuff on the trail, but this has been the best, by far. It is lightweight,  slips on and off easily, and has a large top opening with an easy zipper. It seems to 'fit' better in urban parks and jogging trails where hard-core hiking packs or utility bags with handles can sometimes seem a little out of place. I never get a sideways glance with this fashion-type, but well-made, pack. The only downside is that it is a bit on the pricey-side - I was lucky enough to find mine at an outlet store for a fraction of the cost. 

Well, that's it - I like to keep things rather minimal. But, I always like to hear what others are carrying - what do you find indispensable to carry in your boxing kit?

A quickie comparison: Pfeil and Dockyard

So, a fellow carver asked me to compare the Pfeil 1.0mm v-tool with the Dockyard 1.5mm v-tool. I am only happy to oblige - great question!

First the pics:

Pfeil on the left, Dockyard on the right

you can see the difference in steel finishing;
the steel on the Pfeil is definitely thicker and polished

the Dockyard is 1.5mm, so is wider at the spread,
more so than the Pfeil, which is 1.0mm

Now the carves:

PZ Kut (B)

Analysis: 

In just straight line cuts, I can get a very fine line with the Dockyard, almost more than the Pfeil. Since the mm-measure is that of spread of the tool, it was the cutting edge that really mattered (the base of the 'v'). 

But, while I got a finer straight line with the Dockyard initially, the Pfeil maneuvers easier and smoother. Example - the inner circle cut was the Dockyard and the outer circle was with the Pfeil. I held the tool steady while turning the material for both circles.

The squiggles - definitely finer results with the Pfeil than the Dockyard. The finer squiggle (you can see the shaving laying on top of the material) was done with the Pfeil tool. The larger/thicker squiggle was done with the Dockyard.

The curves - the thick was with the Dockyard, the thinner '9' was with the Pfeil. Then I tried to duplicate the '9' with the Dockyard (the upper-most '9', and the other small curve in the right corner) - excellent. The small shape floating above the upper-most '9' was done with the Pfeil in one sweep, moving the material. Impressive.

While both are held overhand (with the index finger on resting and adjusting pressure on top of the steel part of the tool), the Pfeil is held at a bit more angle than the Dockyard. When comparing the straight fine lines, the Dockyard cut a very fine line; then I tried the Pfeil which kind of shmooshed along the surface. That is when I discovered the difference in angle. When adjusted, the Pfeil carved just as straight and thin as the Dockyard. 

But, let's face it - how often are you required to carve a very fine straight line at random? For me, the challenge comes when getting in close to your image outlines that often curve in awkward ways, carving out the insides of letters, cutting a tight corner, and other fine details like eyes or lips. That is when smoothness and nimble-ness count. I would say the Pfeil is more 'nimble' in this regard.

The bottom line:

They are both fantastic tools. I found the Pfeil to be more smooth and less 'jumpy' than the Dockyard - this is probably due to the thickness of the steel and the polish. The Dockyard is wider at the tip, which could be more challenging than the thinner Pfeil (check out the first tool photo to see if you can see a difference). The angle that the carver must hold the Pfeil may require a bit of carver adjustment. 

I would recommend both as strong contenders for top-notch tool. Ultimately, it is carver's preference and their carving style that may determine which is the better tool for them.

And remember: this is only my opinion. Your carving style may do better with one tool over another. The only way to know is to give them a try. :)

 

Oh my, the Pfeil tools arrived!

Yes, all the way from Sweden, these beauties arrived today! The Swiss-made Pfeil 1mm v-gouge and the .5mm u-gouge arrived at my door. And boy-howdy, was I itchin' to try 'em out!

aren't they pretty?

When I heard that Staedtler gouges were no longer available, I set out on a search for the next best thing. Who knows ... maybe there is something better out there! I hopped on the internet and started reading other artist-carvers - some rubber, some lino, some wood. I kept hearing the same story: they had collected several favorite brands and tools they liked, and used them all during their carving process. But the thing that stuck out to me was that they all had a treasured Pfeil tool in their collection, and they saved it to talk about last because it was the best. I had to get one to see what the fuss was about!

This tool feels very good in the hand. Used overhand, it has a long reach. After a bit of adjustment, it soon felt pretty natural. Unlike the Flexcut or Dockyard tools that are dark carbon steel, these are beautifully finished and smooth to the touch. And they are uber-sharp. They didn't send bandaids though, like the Flexcut Palm set - I guess they figured you could figure that out yourself. :)

The timing was perfect for them to arrive today - I had just transferred an image to Firm Kut last night before bed, but was too tired to start. Good thing - it was waiting for me to try out these babies!

trying to capture the difference
between the 1.0mm and the .5mm - 
contrary to what appears in the photo,
these tools are highly polished and smooth

These tools are smooth cutting on the material. There is no jumping or hanging up. And they are not angled as the Staedtler gouge; the 'v' is neither set back nor forward. They are solid, but not too heavy in the hand. I had no trouble getting fine detail, and was pleased with how little cleanup (after the first printing) was necessary. And, no bobbles or problems to fix. My first print was amazingly clean! Yeah, I agree with those other artists - these tools are worth the cost of admission.

That ticket-price is a bit steep, though. A single tool is just under $40 with shipping. But I managed to get both of them on Amazon, which didn't take too long for delivery (I did have to pay shipping twice since I ordered them separately).

So, here is the final stamp; I used both the Pfeil tools, plus the Flexcut (Micro) sweep (shallow u-tool, 1.5mm) and the 1.5mm Dockyard u-gouge for background cleanup.

2"x 3", Firm Kut, Archival ink, coffee

The bottom line: The Pfeil tools are very well made, felt good in my hand, and carved smoothly and cleanly. They are costly, but they are a lifetime tool. I am a little nervous about sharpening these lovelies, however. That .5 u-gouge is really tiny. If you can splurge, and they are available, I would recommend them. Here are the Amazon links, if you are interested: Pfeil L11/0.5 , Pfeil L 12/1

One final note - Kirbert is right, the 'v' on the Staedtler #1 gouge is still the tightest at the cutting base of all the tools I have tried. But, it is thicker in your hand, the flanges or sides are bigger and more bulky, and it is held different than most other carving tools (underhand, like a pencil), similar to Speedball lino cutters. However, I am pretty confident that, with practice, a high level of detail is possible using the overhand-style of tools, especially these Pfeil tools.

Ramelson micro 1.5mm carving tool.

 Another U.S.-made tool arrived in the mail today. This time its the Ramelson micro carving tool, 1.5mm. 

I had no problems carving with this tool at all. Held overhand, it easily cut smooth curves, just as described:

"This micro carving tool from Ramelson USA® is ideal for carving fine detail into wood, metal clay, polymer clay and other materials. Gouge edge is curved for carving hollows, rounds and sweeping curves. Tempered and pre-sharpened for a durable and proper profiled edge. The round handle is made of white birch wood for a fine and uniform texture." source: Fire Mountain Gems & Beads

too bad, the name wasn't emblazoned on the handle,
like in the catalog photo :(

As you may be able to see, it is a bit lower on the right edge than the left. Although skeptical at first, I found it to be helpful for carving the inside of curves. I really could see where I was 'going' with this tool. 

For a test, I carved this little happy guy:

Ramelson test on PZ (B), Distress Ink (Shabby Shutters green)

There was no struggle to get smooth lines, nor a lot of 'fixing' of bobbles. With practice, I could see where this tool might become a go-to for small details. I am happy to add this tool to my carving arsenal. And, it didn't break the bank at $15 plus shipping (there was a set of 4 micro tools for $45, but I am not sure I would use all the tools in the set). I would definitely recommend this particular tool.

Power Grip tool.

 

this tool is about 5.5" in length, from maker Mikisyo

I didn't hear anyone talking Power Grip, except on a lino-carving blog. Actually, the article Choosing the Best ... was pretty interesting, and I appreciated the reviews of several types of carving tools. And this tool is fairly inexpensive - I picked it up on Amazon for about $10. 

The first thing I didn't care for was the handle - it looks nice, as you can see from the pic, but it is slick. If I held it like a pencil, my fingers slid toward the blade. If I held it overhand, the metal end is too short to place my index finger in a good position for control. Further, when I tried to rock it, say for coming up in a tight corner, the wood handle impeded movement. It definitely would have been better if the blade was bent a bit, and longer, for better maneuverability. Finally, I just couldn't get smooth cut results with this tool, and had to do a LOT of cleanup.

Here are a couple of shots of the tool. It is 1.5mm v-gouge, and it seems to be shaped similar to a Staedtler, where the bottom of the 'v' is farther back than the tips of the 'flanges' or sides. Also, the spread is good - not too wide, so it must be a 45 degree spread.

topside of blade

backside of blade

This tool may be great for lino or woodcarving, but I just couldn't control the cuts as much as I like. 

In the example below, I carved one with the Power Grip tool and the other with Flexcut palm tools. I could definitely get more fine detail and control with the Flexcut tools - without question. And much less cleanup.

this pic looks like the pink stuff, 

but it is not - it is scrap bits of PZ (B)

But here is where the rubber hits the road, so to speak - 
on the left is the Power Grip effort, and on the right is with Flexcut
(ink: Marvy Matchables dye ink)

So, there it is. I would give it a thumbs up on price and looks, but a thumbs down on performance.

Dockyard Mini (v-tools & gouges)

This fine set of carving tools arrived in my mailbox, and you know I was eager to give them a try. I heard about these tools on the AQ boards - I had never heard of them. When I started carving, there were Speedball and Staedtler (and x-acto and needles, but that's a different story) - no one I knew talked about using woodcarving tools, but here we are! And let me tell you, these are pretty nice. I was impressed.

Dockyard Mini set, $60 on Mountain Woodcarvers

They are not bent or curved as you might expect, but that is alright - never once did the wood get in my way of manipulating the tool through the material. I did hold them like the palm-carvers, in an overhand style with my index finger toward the carving tip for control (rather than holding the tool like a pencil). This is a new way of holding the tool for me, and it is beginning to become more comfortable. 

I have tried to not use my Staedtler tools while trying all these others, just so I don't get confused. Carving with the Staedtler tools is just autopilot - they are so familiar. (However, I do still use the large Staedtler U-gouge for removing larger areas of material - it is the biggest I have.) Which leads me to a revelation - no matter what tool you choose to use, that is the one that will become your favorite. Did that even make sense? Haha! In other words, it really doesn't matter what tool you have, if you use it enough, you will become proficient with it, and it will become your comfortable favorite. So, the moral of the story may be: just pick one and use it - it will become your favorite!

Anyway, this set includes 2 v-tools and 2 u-gouges, 1.5mm and 2.0mm of each. I found myself really liking the 2.0mm u-gouge for cleanup, and the 1.5mm v-tool for detail work. But, I was wishing the v-tools had smaller spread of the 'v', which I think is 90 degrees (whereas a 45 degree v-tool would be thinner, but the cutting point would be the same). I think a 45 degree v-tool would allow more visibility of where you are cutting, while the 90 degree kind of gets in the way, a bit. I sometimes felt like I was carving blind.

Overall, I enjoyed using these tools, and they were certainly sharp. I gave them a test-drive with this image. I was thinking of stamping our siggy in the middle when we are out and about - we'll see.

nope ... still not perfect :)

I tested this tool set out on a sample piece of carving block graciously sent to me by the Porras Posse. They sent me the white-green and the pink to try. I tended to like the pink better, but can't tell you why - both of them are pretty soft and carve easily. I would definitely buy some just to have on hand, and the price is right. 8 - 4x6 pieces for $14.99 from Amazon (link for pink, link for white-green). 

*the links above are not affiliate links, and included for your convenience - I am not paid for your clicks.

Flexcut Micro Palm Set.

look what came in the mail today!

Today has been crazy - I had to get some schoolwork done and posted, Chuck had to get his second COVID shot, we had a large shed moved on our property with a crane (of all things!), and this set of carving tools came in the mail! Well, you must know that as soon as I could break away from the other things, I was getting my hands on these sweet little tools!

My theory is that these types of tools, which are intended to carve wood, might work better on firmer material. It seems that too much tip pressure applied to soft material, like pink stuff or the Japanese soft block, might just bury the tip in the mud. That's no good at all. So, I got out some Tan Z, and gave it a go.

To get a good feel, nothing is better for me than to see if I can carve my own scrawl. After transfer (I use the simple pencil transfer method), I worked and worked with that Tan Z. I like how it feels as I make cuts, but I feel like our relationship is complicated. Next, I tried these tools with the same image only on Firm Kut. Gosh, I like the Firm Kut material - it really responds well to my style of carving. Surprisingly, it took me half the time to carve the image with Firm Kut than Tan Z. 

As for my theory ... the jury is still out. According to my hypothesis, the Tan Z should have worked better since it is the more firm material. But, that just wasn't the case.

So the tools themselves feel great in my hand. I feel like my hand is a bit small for them, but I will get used to it - I tend to choke up on the tip a bit because the tip feels so 'far away' when my palm is in the correct position. Further, I really like the smooth metal feel of the Staedtler tools - these tools are carbon steel, meaning a rougher feel and a bit more effort to remove tiny bits of material that get stuck. (I am kind of a freak about that, actually.) I think, with practice, that I could get some pretty precise detail using these. Definitely with practice.

Archival ink (coffee)

Here's the final stamp images - as you can see, the Tan Z is not as happy as the Firm Kut. Certainly more bobbles on the Tan Z. And, of course, the Firm Kut more easily takes ink than the Tan Z. I found that there was a LOT less carving 'clean up' on the Firm Kut stamp than the Tan Z. (I really don't like 'noise' on my stamps, I like them to stamp clean.)

Bottom line: I like the Flexcut tools and will continue to work with them; I am definitely not sorry I purchased them. I like how sharp they are, how they feel in my hand, and that I was able to get some good detail. The only downside for me is getting used to the new hand position and the carbon steel as opposed to a smoother metal feel of the the Staedtlers. All in all, it was a pretty easy transition from the Staedtler gouge to these tools, despite the change in hand position. 

The Intimidating Compass

I have heard it said that if you want new-comers to the hobby of letterboxing to forego your boxes for easier targets, all you have to do is add a couple of compass readings to your clues. Well, I don't know if this is true or not, but I do know that a lot of folks are more than a little intimidated by reading a compass.

How 'bout a little tutorial?

Reading a Compass and Orienteering

How did the explorers of long ago find their way around? They used a compass and a map. Compasses are still used today to help people navigate across the landscape.

Getting to know a compass

This first step in becoming an explorer is to learn how to read and use a compass. There are many types of compasses. This will get you started with a compass that has a rectangular base, a rotating dial, and housing made of clear plastic.

1. Find the directional signs, north, south, east and west. North is the most important direction to help orient yourself. Now find the orienting arrow, magnetic needle, and the direction of travel arrow on your compass.
2. Notice that the magnetic needle points naturally towards the earth's magnetic north pole. Be careful to keep your compass away from metal, like a zipper, because it can affect the magnetic needle and lead you in the wrong direction.
3. Hold the compass level in the palm of your hand near your chest, with the direction arrow facing away from body.
4. Turn the housing so the N is lined up with the red end of the magnetic needle.
5. Turn the housing so the E is lined up with the direction of travel arrow. Now you're ready to use the compass.

Using a compass

Now that you've taken a closer look at your compass, go outside and give this fun activity a try.

Pick up four stones or twigs to use as markers. Put them in your pocket. You might find it helpful to have someone read the following directions to you.

1. Place a marker where you are standing.
2. Turn the housing on the compass so that N (north) lines up with the direction arrow.
3. Hold the compass level in the palm of your hand, chest high, with the direction arrow facing away from your body.
4. Turn your whole body, including your feet, until the red magnetic needle lines up with the orienting arrow on the dial.
5. Look up. Choose a landmark, like a rock, tree or sign which is exactly ahead of you in the distance. Take six steps toward that spot without looking at the compass. Stop. Place a marker here.
6. Turn the housing on the compass so that W (west) lines up with the direction arrow. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5.
7. Turn the housing on the compass so that S (south) lines up with the direction arrow. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5.
8. Turn the dial on the compass so that E (east) lines up with the direction arrow.
   Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5.

Did you return to your first marker?

Go back and walk to each marker.

What shape did you make? You should have made a square.

Now repeat the activity using the following degrees: 360, 90, 180, 270. This should also make the same square.

Congratulations, you now know how to use a compass.

(--Adapted from the Wisconsin Explorer program, Wisconsin Dept. of Natural Resources.)

If you know how to read a compass, you can determine the bearing. A bearing is the direction from your position or degree reading to another object. You can measure the bearing on a map, or if you can see your objective, directly in the field.

Bearing in the field

Knowing how to take a bearing in the field can be useful, if, for instance, you are heading into a valley where the forest will hide your goal. Take a bearing on your objective while you can see it and then follow that bearing after you lose sight of your goal:

1. Hold the magnetic compass in your hand. Hold it quite flat, so that the needle can turn.

2. Point the direction of the travel line at your desired object.

3. Rotate the housing to align the pointed end of declination arrow with the red end (North) of the magnetic needle.

4. Read bearing at index line.

5. The direction of travel arrow now points precisely to your objective. Look up, sight on a landmark and walk to it. Repeat this procedure until you reach your objective. Using this pattern you will follow a relatively straight line.

Bearing on a map

If you cannot see your objective in the field, you need to measure the bearing on your map:

1. Place the compass on your map with the edge along the desired line of travel. The direction of travel line points to the objective.

2. Rotate the housing to align meridian lines with north-south lines on your map, with "N" towards the top of the map.

3. Hold the compass level in front of you and turn your body until the red end of the needle is directly over the red part of the north arrow.

4. Read bearing at index line.

5. see 5) above